Where you stay
Morocco keeps its best rooms behind unmarked doors. A blank wall in a Fes alley opens into a courtyard with a fountain. A dirt track in the Atlas ends at a terrace above the valley. I don't work from a hotel list — I've slept in these places, I know which rooms are worth asking for, and I know which famous ones aren't worth the money.
Desert camps
Erg Chebbi, Merzouga. From proper beds under canvas to camps with hot water, rugs and a fire.
Riads in the medinas
Fes, Marrakech, Tetouan, Essaouira. Courtyard houses of four to eight rooms. The difference between a good one and a bad one is the staff, and that takes years to learn.
Pools and terraces
When you want a pool, a sea view and a decent cocktail instead of another tiled courtyard.
Gardens and courtyards
The quiet half-hour between the souk and dinner.
I'll tell you honestly when a property has slipped. I lose nothing by moving you and I'd rather you came back.