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Your first day in Casablanca, with BiBi.

These are the things I tell friends before they arrive.

This page prints cleanly if you would rather carry it on paper.

Arriving and getting around

  • The airport train runs to Casa Voyageurs, about 35 minutes. For Casa Port, change at Casa Voyageurs onto the local line.
  • Agree the fare before you get into a taxi, or ask the driver to use the meter. Small red taxis are for short city hops; larger white taxis cover longer distances.
  • Keep small notes and coins. Drivers and small shops rarely have change for large notes.
  • The tram is easy, cheap and safe. Buy your ticket at the machine on the platform before boarding.
  • Casablanca is a working city rather than a museum. Walk the Art Deco centre, the old medina and Habous, and take a taxi for anything further.

Bargaining, politely

  • Prices are fixed in supermarkets, pharmacies, cafes, restaurants and on public transport. Do not bargain there.
  • In the medina and at craft stalls, bargaining is normal and friendly. Ask the price, smile and name something lower.
  • If you would not buy it at your own price, do not name that price.
  • Walking away calmly is part of the conversation, not an insult.
  • At food markets locals pay posted or seasonal prices. Ask rather than haggle over a kilo of tomatoes.

Ordering food

  • Breakfast is bread, olive oil, jam, msemen or harcha, with mint tea or coffee.
  • Lunch is the main meal. Tagine and couscous are slow dishes, so order them without being in a hurry. Friday is couscous day in many homes and restaurants.
  • Grilled sardines and fried fish are what this coast does best. Ask what came in that morning.
  • Tap water is chlorinated. Most visitors drink bottled water, and I bring some with me on the experiences.
  • Tipping is not obligatory. Rounding up, or a few dirhams in a cafe, is normal and appreciated.

A little Darija goes a long way

  • Salam alikoum - hello (the everyday greeting).
  • Labas? - how are you? Labas, hamdullah - fine, thank God.
  • Shukran - thank you. Afak - please.
  • Bshhal? - how much? Ghali bezzaf - that is too expensive.
  • Smahli - excuse me. Yallah - let's go.
  • La, shukran - no, thank you. Said with a smile, it goes a long way.

Photographs and everyday respect

  • Ask before photographing people, especially vendors and older people. A hand gesture and a smile is enough.
  • Some stallholders will say no. Accept it and move on.
  • Dress as you like, and lean towards covered shoulders and knees in the medina, in Habous and around mosques.
  • The Hassan II Mosque can be visited by non-Muslims on a guided tour at set times. Book or arrive early, and dress modestly.
  • During Ramadan many places close in the daytime. Eating and drinking discreetly in the street is the kind thing to do.

A simple first day

  • Morning: coffee and msemen near your hotel, then the Hassan II Mosque from the outside, and the esplanade along the water.
  • Late morning: walk into the old medina, then along to the Marche Central to see what the fish counters are doing.
  • Lunch: grilled fish at the market, or a tagine in the Art Deco centre.
  • Afternoon: the Art Deco streets around Boulevard Mohammed V, then Habous for bread, olives and pastries.
  • Evening: the Corniche for sunset, dinner late, as people here eat late.

Timings are deliberately loose. Check opening hours and fares before you set out.

When you want company for a day

My three Casablanca experiences, if you would like one of your days with me.